Day 5: Sunday 9/19/10

5 am I'm up. 5:30 Jim's ready to surf. We drive to Hanalei Beach Park. I watch and study the break. It rains. 8:00 the rental place opens. I paddle out and get pounded after I go off the back of my first wave. I'm doing something wrong. After watching others, you paddle around the break, not through! Three spots, the point (wrong board for this spot today), the shelf, and the bowl. I found the bowl and put two and two together. Two hours and I'm hungry and sunburnt (yes, I put sunscreen on, at 5). Free sunscreen from the surf rental and I get a snack from Polynesia Cafe. Back in the water, I get yelled at by a local, get three big waves and its time to turn in the board. I walk toward Kilauea and get picked up by a compulsive hitch hiker picker upper.

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