Wednesday 11/10/10

went this morning to a new surf spot.. i've been watching it since my third day here...waiting for the right swell. it was inconsistent today, yesterday went and watched about a dozen people surf 3 different waves. today i was there alone. it was kinda punchy (breaks real hard and fast then lingers with an occasional burst). i only had 40 minutes before i had to leave for work. i caught one good wave, fell on two and had one crappy wave. they were head high. small for hawaii. i still laugh at myself when i say head high waves are small. its amazing how quick i've forgotten my decades of knee high surfing.

i'm off tomorrow, i'm going to the same spot and going to try and get better acquainted with how it breaks.